10 Years of Democracy in South Africa: Thabo Mbek'is election poster.
Orange River wine lands, April 2004.
VISITING BLINKWATER
IN THE DUNES...
BUSHMAN MAGIC - THE PICTURE THAT WENT TO FETCH RAIN
TAKING THE KALAHARI TO THE UK
KALAHARI RAINSONG
BUSHMEN TO VISIT AMERICA THIS SEPTEMBER
KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK - LIONS LIONS LIONS
Frank and Lisa were back in southern Africa for another three months this year. After spending several weeks in Cape Town, we headed up to the Cederberg, Kalahari, Botswana and Livingstone, Zambia.
Oudrif strawbale cottages in the Cederberg... delicious food, wonderful hikes, swimming in the river and rafting in season... a lovely place!
VISITING BLINKWATER
I mentioned Vetkat and Belinda in my last newsletter - Vetkat the artist and his wife who live at Blinkwater a remote 'farm' in the Kalahari desert. Vetkat & Belinda met us at Twee Rivieren, the camp at the entrance to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (used to be called the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park) where Belinda once worked. From there we followed their bakkie through farm gates and over dunes twelve kilometres to their home on the farm, Blinkwater.
Kobie, Oom Hansie, Belinda, Dial & Vetkat.
IN THE DUNES
The Landy and our tent next to the shepherd's tree that Oupa Regop ('Grandfather Upstanding') used to like sitting under.
The homestead, Landy, Bakkie and Kombi.
"When the fifth veil falls and with it the illusion of financial worth, individuals might recognise themselves again. Might find themselves standing as if naked, among ancient values in a long-lost landscape."
- Tom Robbins, Skinny Legs and all.
At the gate to the kitchen 'skerm' (grass enclosure and hut).
Vetkat enjoying some early morning sun.
We were about to enjoy a special Vetkat type philosophical moment and Elop is sniffing out something in the background.
THE PICTURE THAT WENT TO FETCH RAIN
Drought has been an ongoing problem for life in the Kalahari. It has been said that the rain patterns will only return once the people of the Kalahari, the bushmen, dance again like they used to, to bring the rain. Oupa Regop, Vetkat and Dawid's wise father prophesied this before he died. In March 2003 the final land claim grant came through for the bushmen, but the community itself is in such a bad state after years and years of neglect, that it seems it will take some time and a lot of care before the 'little people' dance again in a way that will let the heavens open up. In the mean time, many people are working towards this vision and goal and little bits of magic turn up all the time.
Here is a special story that Belinda shared with us on a recent trip she made to Cape Town.
It begins in early 2002, at Blinkwater where Vetkat did a sacred drawing. He said this drawing was to go to the Mayor of Milton Keynes' office in the UK, to collect rain for the Kalahari. Belinda wrote on the back of the picture that it was to be sent back to the Kalahari sometime in the future and gave the art piece to a friend who was going to England later that year. Sure enough it got there. Blinkwater received a newspaper article with a picture of the mayor receiving the picture. In 2003 Belinda asked her friend to check up on the drawing and some months later, on Jan 4th 2004, seemingly out of the blue, another friend received a package from the UK. On opening it he found a drawing of Vetkat's and sent a text message to Belinda's cellular phone asking whether she knew anything about a drawing of Vetkat's arriving from somewhere in England. When Belinda reached to answer her phone, Vetkat chided her for jumping to the beck and call of modern life, saying, "Los maar die selfoon! Kom kyk na die wolke." (Just leave the cell phone! Come and look at the clouds.")
And it rained that night!
The magic does not end there, however. When Belinda and a friend, Charlene went to England earlier this year, they missioned off to Milton Keynes to meet the new mayor and round off the story. But look what happened to their photo of the road outside of the Mayor of Milton Keynes' office. Belinda's Kombi ( mini-bus) with some of Vetkat's painted trees and figures is 'parked' there too! (above behind red cars, between the trees). And Kalahari dunes loom out of the English clouds...
TAKING THE KALAHARI TO THE UK
More double exposure magic:
Belinda with springbok in the Thames.
Glastonbury on the edge of Blinkwater (Kombi is back home!)
Olafur Eliasson's sun at Tate Modern shines out of the Kalahari dunes.
BELINDAS BOOK - KALAHARI RAINSONG
Belinda's book has just been launched and is out in Exclusive books (South Africa). Belinda brought the news to Llandudno along with her friend and co-author Elana and Charlene who I call the 'record Keeper of the Kalahari'. And naturally we met the artist, Sarah Mackie, who originally introduced me to Belinda and Vetkat on her way back from the beach!
"I, Belinda Kruiper, have a story to tell. It's a story of my love for a man called Vetkat Regopstaan Longlife Kruiper: for his people, the #Khomani Bushmen, who opened their hearts to me and made me one of them. And for the land that they belong to - the great, red, beautiful Kalahari, that can be both heaven and hell."
This moving and unusual story brings together the voices of two South African women, different in background, connected in spirit. Weaving together a range of styles and strands - mythic, political and anecdotal - Kalahari RainSong reflects the complex reality of the #Khomani bushman community that Belinda is a part of. It includes powerful photographic portraits of Bushman life as well as unique pieces of art by acclaimed Bushman artist Vetkat Kruiper. Through the telling of her own personal journey, Belinda powerfully evokes the Bushmen's continuing struggles for survival, land and identity in South Africa today.
THE BUSHMEN IN AMERICA
So Frank and Lisa (out from Santa Fe, New Mexico) & I shared the dunes, fire, a freezing Kalahari wind and wild, exciting, happy, sad, tragic stories with the Blinkwater family. It has rained in the Kalahari. Vetkat has flu. There have been some deaths and among them, Vet Piet, the legendary tracker died in a car crash. I was planning to look him up this time... one of South Africa's best. The holder of incredible knowledge. Gone because of someone drinking and driving.
More strange news: Vetkat, Isak and Belinda are probably going to America with Rupert Isaacson! And, will be in Santa Fe at the same time as some African Essence travellers (two from New Mexico) are meant to be visiting them in the Kalahari... The leave on September 25th.
Needless to say, my September Cape to Kalahari Safari is now the October Cape to Kalahari Safari - from October 8th - 28th 2004. I will probably join Vetkat, Belinda and others on the US safari.
More info on the US safari can be found at www.thehealingland.com and www.journeytotheheart.com
KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK
Evidence of the recent rains was everywhere - carpets of yellow and purple flowers covered parts of the dunes.
Giraffes cross a road inside the Park.
The Kalahari was GREEN! The game seemed fat and happy. These lionesses had such fat stomachs!
We encountered nine lions in three groups on one day! Orange eyes and purple flowers.
This magnificent male is guarding a gemsbok kill.
And here are the ones that got away...
The promise of rain in the Kalahari...
We have had 10 years of democracy now and things have changed, but not always for the best. It is my belief that it takes more than democracy to change people's lives. I think that what it takes is a personal 'long walk to freedom'.
Vetkat & Belinda would like Blinkwater to be a haven for the bushmen, especially the young ones, to get away from the destructive vices and influences that destroy their lives. It is a place far from the main road where they can learn some good things about the old ways and find a sense of self-worth. Kobie and Dial helped me cook dinner on the fire and pack the Land Rover, then built a chicken coop. Apparently their mothers have noticed a positive change in the two young men. They get up early, make fires and help with cooking.
They would like to build a gallery/studio so that there is a good place for everyone and anyone to produce art at Blinkwater. They also want to exhibit Vetkat's sacred collection of art. This is art that is to remain in the Kalahari and will not be sold.
Sharing knowledge, experiences, culture and love with visitors from all over is good for everyone. That is what Blinkwater and the US journey is all about.
It is also the 10th anniversary of my trip up to Equatorial Kenya in my VW beetle, in 1994 - also the year I began guiding safaris.
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